Peru and inca trail tips 

How hard is it?
That will depend on you and what you're used to. It's generally reckoned to be a strenuous hike but there's no rock-climbing or glacier-walking involved, so no technical expertise is required. The difficulty comes largely from the repeated steep ascents and descents, and from the high altitude. The climb to the first pass takes you up from around 9,800 feet to more than 13000 feet in a relatively short space, followed by a descent of around 3000 feet. After the second pass at 12,631 feet, things generally become easier. You should remember also that unless you go with an organized tour or hire porters you will need to carry camping and cooking equipment, clothing and food for three or four days, all of which makes for a fairly heavy pack.
How fit do I need to be?
The fitter you are, the more you will enjoy it. Conversely, the less fit you are, the less you'll enjoy it. If you're extremely unfit, you may even fail to enjoy it to the point of collapsing in a lifeless heap somewhere along the way and having to be buried on the spot by your fitter companions. In the absence of any agreed universal measure of fitness, consider that for a relative fit fifty-one year old (me) it was difficult but manageable. I found the second day and the first part of the third very tough indeed, but thereafter things became easier. However, don't be deceived. It is very hard work in places and you are likely to be carrying a heavier pack than you are normally used to. A better than average standard of fitness is probably highly desirable, if not absolutely required. If you want to prepare yourself, hiking is the most obviously appropriate activity but anything that builds stamina such as running or swimming is also useful. Stamina is more important than strength or speed; being able to bench-press five hundred pounds will probably not help unless you intend to walk the Trail on your hands.
What about altitude?
The Inca Trail is high enough that some people do have problems with the altitude, LuAnn and me included. Being short of breath is relatively common and is not, by itself, cause for concern. On the other hand, severe dizziness, loss of coordination and concentration, severely irregular (Cheyne-Stokes) breathing, and death from pulmonary or cerebral edema are generally regarded as more serious symptoms of mountain sickness. The chances are that you won't experience any ill-effects from the altitude, but it is definitely worth spending some time acclimatizing before you set out, with Cusco being the obvious place to do this. If you go straight from sea-level to the Inca Trail you are much more likely to have problems, as we did. It's been suggested that 3-4 days acclimatization, including day-hikes in the Cusco region, should be considered a minimum. Again, getting fit beforehand will also make life easier.
What's the best time of year to go?
The 'dry' season from April to October seems to be generally considered preferable, at least as far as weather is concerned. The driest months are from May to September, winter months in the Southern hemisphere. Temperatures can fall to below freezing above 10,000 feet, and it may be windy from August onwards. During the spring, September to December, there are likely to be early afternoon showers (sometimes accompanied by thunderstorms) of short duration, and it may be cloudy and overcast. Nights during this season are clear (which means cold at high altitude). The rainy season is from December to May. There is likely to be heavy rain for two to three hours every afternoon, as well as the possibility of light showers that continue over a longer period. Walking conditions are difficult and streams may become impassable. Note that just as anywhere else in the world, these are general tendencies. You could have a dry day in December and you could get rained on in July. Note also that there's a wide variation in temperature, dependent on altitude and time of day. Some guidebooks report that it can vary by up to 40 degrees, so it can be quite warm during the day at low altitudes and below freezing higher up during the night.
Is it dangerous?
Not especially. It's a three or four day walk in a fairly remote area. There are places where you could fall and hurt yourself, or even kill yourself if you really work at it, but unless you're very careless or clumsy it's not very likely. On the other hand, it's not a good place to have a medical emergency. If you have a tendency towards cardiac arrest, passing suddenly into a diabetic coma, epileptic fits or whatever, try to arrange for it to happen somewhere else.
I'm scared of heights - will I be able to walk the Trail?
If the words 'Inca Trail' call up images of swaying rope bridges over deep ravines and narrow paths carved into the faces of sheer precipices, relax. There's nothing like that. And it's a walking trail, so you don't need to do any mountaineering. There are a few steep descents, and there are some places where there is a drop-off on one side of the roadway. However, even people who don't like heights should be able to walk these stretches quite comfortably.
What about wild animals?
One section of the Trail is optimistically marked "Zona de Osos" ("Bear Zone"), but your chances of stumbling across a bear are probably very slight. Predatory wildlife on the Inca Trail consists mainly of the local pigs and dogs around Wayllabamba (who will eat anything that you leave outside, including boots, rucksacks and plastic garbage bags) and biting flies, which will eat you up. The insects, particularly around the Pacamayo, are extremely fierce. There have also been reports of chiggers and other pests near Wayllabamba. A good insect repellent is a necessity.
Is the Trail crowded?
You're likely to meet about 200 other people per day on the Trail, including large groups with guides and porters. The crowding is evidently particularly bad during the popular summer months. This has an inevitable impact, both on the facilities and the environment. Whatever the conditions on the Trail, Machu Picchu is usually Tourist Central.
Toilet facilities?
They're scarce. There are pit toilets at the campsites, but the rest of the time you're on your own. What this means above all else is that you need to be a good citizen of the wilderness and obey the rules. Since it's impractical to backpack your crap out of the region along with the rest of your rubbish, this means that when you have to go, you should go a long way away from the Trail, and bury your excrement properly after you're done. This is not an especially pleasant task, but it must be done. And when you're at the campsites, use the facilities available.
Peru Travellers Tips

Getting Around

Peru is a big country, so many travelers take internal flights if they have limited time. There are four bigger companies operating flights (Aero Continente, LanPeru (co-owned by LanChile), Taca and Tans). There are also a handful of small airlines flying to remote destinations in light aircraft. There's an 18% tax on domestic flights and there's also a US$ 4.00 departure tax on domestic flights.

Public buses are the usual mode of transport over long distances. They are cheap, frequent and relatively comfortable, at least on major routes. When traveling between towns, have your passport with you, as it will need to be shown at police checkpoints. Armed robberies on night buses are not unheard of in Peru, so travel on a day bus (or fly) if you have the option. Trucks often double as buses in remote areas. Local buses are slow, cheap and crowded; when you want to get off just yell out. Taxi fares need to be haggled over; there are no metered cabs. Agree on the fare in advance.

When to Go

Peru's peak tourist season is from June to August, which is the dry season in the highlands, and this is the best time to go if you're interested in hiking. Travelers do visit the highlands year-round, though the wettest months, January to April, make trekking muddy. Many of the major fiestas occur in the wettest months and continue undiminished in spite of heavy rain. Basically, there is tourism in the highlands throughout the year.

On the coast, Peruvians visit the beaches during the sunny months from late December through March, although few beaches are particularly enticing. The rest of the year, the coast is clothed in mist. In the eastern rainforests, it naturally rains a lot. The wettest months are December through April, though travelers visit year-round since it rarely rains for more than a few hours and there's still plenty of sunshine to enjoy.

What to Bring

Because Peru is a country of such diversity, what you bring depends on your travel plans. Bring warm clothes for the mountains, light clothes for the jungle and a combination for the coastal deserts, which are warm by day and cool at night. Items that are difficult to obtain in the country include: personal medical supplies, a money belt, sunscreen, good books in your native language and any electrical equipment you use.

Some other suggestions include: something small and typical from your home country (for your guest family). Dictionary; Spanish grammar book in your own language (there are no Spanish Grammar books or Dictionaries available in Cusco); email addresses; a guidebook, English novel books (no good bookstores around). If you plan to do the Inca Trail or another camping trip we suggest bringing a warm jumper/sweater; raincoat; walking shoes/hiking boots; sleeping bag (for Inca Trail, although these can be rented as well); water purification tablets (can be bought in Cusco as well); pocket knife; torch/flashlight and equipment because there is a shortage of trekking supplies in the country. For the jungle excursions malaria tablets, mosquito net and a raincoat (all can be bought in Cusco as well).

Money in Peru

The currency of Peru is the Nuevo Sol. There are 100 centavos to each sol. At the time of writing US$ 1.00 was equal to S/.3.45. There are a number of automatic teller machines that take credit cards and there are numerous "Casas de Cambio" where Travelers Checks may be cashed or US Cash may be changed. There are also ATM that excepts Eurocards, which are Banco Latino and Banco del Sur. It is useful to arrive with American dollars. When changing money, be careful that you are not distracted with anything to make you lose count of what you have been given.

Expenses in Peru

The following list gives you some indication of what you may wish to plan for during your stay in Cusco. Taxis US$ 0.75; local transport US$ 0.20; a set meal/menu in restaurant US$ 2.50; a beer in a nightclub US$ 1.75; a coffee in a trendy caf/bar $1.50; a pizza in a nice restaurant US$ 5.00; international phone call $0.50 per minute; laundry service US$ 1.00 per kilo; long distance local transport US$ 13.00 for about 15 hours; email service US$ 0.50/hr.

If you are planning a trip in Peru after the Spanish Course, you have to consider a US$ 15-20 for a tiny budget including low-budget accommodations, all your meals and travel expenses. However, there are a couple of expensive tours you might want to take (e.g. Machu Picchu, river rafting, etc.).

Climate in Peru

The rainy season in Cusco occurs from December through April Students may still walk the Inca Trail, however, it may be wet at times. During the dry season, temperatures are hot during the day and very cold at night. It is recommended that students bring a wet weather coat and a warm coat for the nights and inside buildings, as they don't have heating. During the dry season it gets hot during the day in the sun, but it is always chilly during the nights, inside the buildings and in the shade. In May, June and July temperature really drops and it gets pretty cold. However, it is (almost) always sunny during the day.

Communications

Generally, it'll be no problem to contact home, either by phone, mail, fax or internet. Long distance phone calls are about US$ 3.00 per minute but there are cheaper possibilities with Net2Phone etc. There are lots of cyber cafes in Cusco, the price for an hour of internet is about US$ 1.00.

Visas

No visa is necessary for most western countries (but please check with the Peruvian Embassy in your home country). The tourist visa you will get upon arrival at Lima Airport, will allow you 90 days in Peru. You are allowed a maximum of three 30-day extensions for up 180 days (6 months) in Peru. Each extension will cost you about US$ 25.00. You might want to consider just crossing the (Bolivian or Chilean) border, if you need more time in Peru. It'll take you about two days and you'll be guaranteed another 90 days.

Traveling

Generally, it is pretty safe and relatively easy to travel around by yourself in Peru. There are buses, planes, taxis etc. all over the country as well as hotels of all categories. There are all kinds of travelers and tourists around and it will be easy to meet other people and have a great trip full of adventure, culture and new friends.

Laundry

There are several laundry services in town that charge about US$ 1.00 per kilo to wash and fold, your clothes normally in 24 hours.

Taxis

Are innumerable. They can be flagged down by shouting taxi or by waving. Upon arrival at Lima airport an official cap might charge you US$ 20.00 or even US$ 25.00. From any point of the city to the airport is less expensive, about US$ 8.00 (an unofficial taxi). Within the city (Lima), the rate will vary from US$ 3.00 till US$ 8.00. Out of Lima, fares are cheaper. In Cusco, for example, taxis charge S/. 2.00 during the day and S/. 3.00 after 22:00 pm within the city. A taxi ride from or to the airport is more expensive. We recommend only official taxis especially during the nights. The cost is the same and they can be recognized because they have a phone number on the roof.

Toilets

Peruvian toilets rarely have toilet paper, even in the restaurants. It is best to take your own miniroll around with you. Dont put paper down the toilet as it will block it. Receptacles are provided, even in the houses, and these are regularly emptied.

Shopping

Items purchased in shops and restaurants have fixed prices and cannot be bargained for. However, items on the street or in the market are bargainable. Peruvians have learnt that the tourists have more money than themselves so will sometimes put up their prices when they see you coming. If you think you are being conned then start to walk away. If they don`t call you back with a lower price then you have probably reached as low as they will go.

The best quality and value lies in handcrafted products. This particularly applies to gold, silver and copper works, as well as Peru's rich textile goods. These include alpaca garments and woven tapestries. Alpaca products are well worth buying, as long as you are prepared to hand-wash them with great care. Vendors will often tell you their goods are made from alpaca beb. This does not mean baby alpacas, but refers to the wool taken from the throat of the animal, where it is at its finest and softest. Most woolen jumpers sold as alpaca are actually usually a more hardwearing mix of llama wool and synthetic fibers. Many tourists also take home reproductions of pre-Columbian ceramics, with gourds being the favorite.

Business Hours

Most stores are open from 10:00am to 21:00 pm with a long lunch break between 13:00 pm and 16:00 pm. Banks are open only in the morning from 9 am to 13:00 and from 4:30 till 18:00 in the afternoon.

Health and Safety

Health Care

It is recommended that prior to arrival, students undertake a thorough medical examination, purchase health insurance and consult your physician about the necessary injections. There is no malaria in the Cusco area!

Sunburn

Don`t forget that the sun is much stronger at tropical latitudes. It is easy to get sunburnt even when it is overcast. Take extra precautions to avoid being sunburnt: wear a hat and use sunscreen. Try not too spend too much time in the direct sun, especially between 11:00 and 14:00. Be especially careful when going on boat trips as the wind and reflection of sun from the water will increase the risk of sunburn. Drinks lots of water.

Stomach Upsets

Symptoms are nausea, vomiting and diarrhea. The best precaution against this is to avoid uncooked vegetables, salads and tap water. Eat only fruit that requires peeling. If living with a host family all your food and drinks will have been properly prepared, so indulge. Despite precautions, many visitors are affected by an upset stomach. If you are affected get plenty of rest and drink lots of liquids. Oral Rehydration Solutions (ORS) are available from pharmacists and can help you to replace the fluids lost. If you are affected for more than three days and/or you have a fever, you should visit a doctor.

Altitude Sickness

Some people experience some discomfort at this altitude. We recommend at least a day of rest prior to the commencement of classes. The symptoms are headaches, dizziness, stomach upset and tiredness. These symptoms can be managed by reducing the alcohol intake; drinking lots of fluids; eating light meals and getting plenty of rest.

Safety Issues

Cusco is a relatively safe city but as the urban center have swollen, so has petty crime. Unfortunately, pickpockets and thieves have become more and more common in Lima and Cusco and one should take precautions such as not taking a taxi alone at night nor walking around on the street alone after 22:00. Objects such as money and passports should not be left openly in your room.

Arrival - tourist offices - tickets - mountain sickness - crime in Cusco and the poverty conditions for the natives

Arrival, information and city transport

[Telephone dialing code for Cusco is 084, international 0051-84].

Taxi or colectivo from the airport to the center of Cusco

Cusco's [international airport] Aeropuerto Internacional Velasso Astete (T. 222611) is 4km south of the city center. You can either take a taxi from outside the arrivals hall ($2-3 to the city center) or a colectivo combi from outside the airport car park (frequent departures 50 cents), which goes to Plaza San Francisco via Avenida Sol and Plaza de Armas. Note that the airport is full of tour touts, who should be avoided.

Coming from the Huanchac train station

If you're coming in by train from Juliaca, Puno or Arequipa, you'll arrive at the Huanchac train station in the southeast of the city; you can hail a taxi on the street outside (around $1 to the center), or turn left out of the station and walk about a hundred meters to Avenida Sol, from where you can either catch a colectivo (30 cents, including the airport one if it has space, see above), or walk the eight or nine blocks up a gentle hill to the Plaza de Armas, essentially the city center.

[Since two years the natives are prohibited to sell their products on the Plaza de Armas because tourists feel too molested].

Coming by bus from the bus terminals of Cusco

Apart from Cruz del Sur, who have their own independent depot at Avenida Pachacutec, a few blocks east of Huanchac railway station and Avenida Sol, inter-regional and international buses (see Listings, p. 272, for details) arrive and depart from the rather scruffy Terminal Terrestre at Avenida Vallegos Santoni, block 2 (T. 224471) southeast of the center, close to the Pachacutec monument and roundabout (ovalo) and roughly halfway between the Plaza de Armas and the airport. Taxis from here to the city center cost $1-2, or you can walk to the Pachacutec ovalo and catch a colectivo uphill to either the Plaza San Francisco or the Plaza de Armas - otherwise, it's about a half-hour walk.

Local buses to regional centers

Regional buses from the Sicuani, Urcos and Paucartambo areas stop around blocks 15 and 16 of Avenida de la Cultura, from where it's a bit of a hike, so you'll almost certainly want to take a taxi ($1-2) or bus or combi colectivo (30 cents) to the center.

Almost all Sacred Valley buses come and go from Avenida Grau 525 (for Pisac, Urubamba, Chincheros, Ollantaytambo), near Puente Grau, or Tullumayu 207 (for Pisac). Another bus stop for Urubamba via Pisac can be found in block 2 of Calle Puputi.

To get up to Sacsayhuaman [Inca fortress 2km on a hill near Cusco] without the breathtaking experience of walking up there before you've really acclimatized to the altitude, take the Tranvia Cusco woodenbus (T. 224377 or 740640; $2 or less, small children, free) which takes a scenic ride through the historic center up to Sacsayhuaman and back most days; it's usually found parked outside the Hostal Familiar on Calle Saphi.

Free tourist information offices

The main tourist office, operated by the Dirección Regional de Industria y Turismo (DRIT ["Local department of industry and tourism"]) at Portal de Mantas 117-A (Mon-Fri 8am-7pm, Sat 8am-2.30pm; T. 263176 or 222032), is a short block from the Plaza de Armas

with information kiosks at the airport and the Terminal Terrestre. Another small municipal tourist-information kiosk is in the pedestrian area outside San Pedro market (Mon-Fri 9am-noon and 3-6pm).

The downtown tourist information office is well-staffed, spacious and offers a friendly service with sound advice on where to go and how to get there, as well as maps and brochures. Some tourist information is also provided by i-Peru Tourist Assistance from from their office at Avenida Sol 103 (Rom 203; daily 9am-7pm; T. 252974, Fax 234498, e-mail iperucusco@promperu.gob.pe), as well as from a booth at the airport (daily 6am-4pm, sometimes later; t. 237364). There's also an information kiosk with very limited information (irregular hours between 8am and 6pm) at the Terminal Terrestre bus terminal.

Other sources are tour agencies around the Plaza de Armas or along calles Plateros and Procuradores, running uphill from the plaza. They provide leaflets promoting their own tours, but many also offer customized generic plans of the city and simple maps of the Sacred Valley and nearby regions. The Cuscoperu website is a good source of information about Cusco: www.cuscoperu.com (S.249).

City transport - walking

[Maps of the town are hardly to have. Ask in the tourist offices. The bus system is never indicated. Tourists have no chance to get the bus lines out in only one or two weeks].

Cusco's center is small enough to walk around. Taxis can be waved down on any street [they are attacking the white tourists with honking as much as they can, you cannot walk on a street without being attacked because poverty is so hard and the taxi driver wants some Soles by a service for a white tourist]. (p.249)

Cusco Tourist Tickets (Boleto Turistico - Cusco)

The Cusco Tourist Ticket (130 soles for 10 days, students 70 soles; a one-day ticket costs 70 soles, no discounts) is a vital purchase for most visitors. It's the only way to get into most of the city's and region's main attractions and comes with useful maps and other information, including opening times. It does not give entry to the Catedral, Iglesia San Blas or Museo de Arte Religioso ["museum of religious art"], which each cost a separate $5 entry.

The ticket is, in theory, available from all of the sites on the ticket, but in practice it's best to buy from the Tourist Information office in Calle Mantas, the i-Peru office at Avenida Sol 103 (Galerias Turisticas, room 2; T. 227037) or the office at Casa Garcilaso on the corner of Garcilaso and Heladeros (Mon-Fri 7.45am-6pm, Sat 8.30am-4pm, Sun 8am-noon) (p.249).

Mountain sickness "soroche"

Soroche, or mountain sickness, is a reality for most people arriving in Cusco by plane from sea level and needs to be treated with respect. It's vital to take it easy not eating or drinking much on arrival, even sleeping a whole day just to assist acclimatization (coca tea is a good local remedy). After three days at this height most people have adjusted sufficiently to tackle moderate hikes at similar or lesser altitudes. Anyone considering tackling the major mountains around Cusco will need time to adjust again to their higher base camps (p.248)

[When you come by bus from Lima it can be some passengers have soroche in the bus. One is chewing coca leafs against soroche in the bus].

Crime in Cusco by extreme poverty

[Poverty is so strong in Cusco - and the upper class of Peru is not giving any cent of the big profits of Machu Picchu to the Cusco population, so there is crime against tourists in Cusco. When the window glass cannot be repaired and people are freezing in the night there will be criminality to have money for the window glass etc. Tourist companies are also instigating a hatred against the tourists e.g. when tourists have the better buses than the population, and tourist restaurants give pizzas for 30 soles what is 3 times a daily income for a native, and tourist hotels have always water, the population in the suburbs only 2 hours every 2 days. At the same time the government of Peru maintains that tourism would be "important". Yes, for the money bag of the government, tourism is important, not to for the natives! By this the government of Peru and it's corrupt industry are giving conditions that criminality and envy will not stop].

Cusco police have made a real effort to clean up the city's poor reputation for pickpocketing, bag snatching and street muggings. However, in recent years there have been several reports of "strangle muggings", whereby tourists are jumped and strangled to the point of fainting before being robbed. Although crimes in general are rare, it's still best to avoid walking along empty streets late at night, especially if alone. The police claim that robberies are virtually non-existent around the Plaza de Armas or Avenida Sol, but admit that incidents are still possible in the Central Market and the area downhill from here. The train stations tend to be well policed by private security, and inside the railway compounds problems are almost non-existent.

http://www.quechuasexpeditions.com